Tuesday Last Full Day in NOLA

I planned a busy Wednesday afternoon in New Orleans (NOLA) and soon realized I did not have time to change into my suit for the steamboat ride. I wore a white dress shirt and my blue sweater vest. Now that I did not look like a tourist, the locals waved and smiled at my hat-tipping. It would do.

I finished the day at Chartres House in the French Quarter. I had walked by the place all day, and they politely asked me in each time. I finally agreed. I ordered a Sazerac and drank it at the bar. The drink was made by their bartender, Shawn, who made it slowly, explained each step, and commented that it was an old-school drink that needed to be made in two containers, unlike the more modern cocktail and strangely named Old Fashion. One of the special ingredients is Peychaud’s Bitters, which was invented in NOLA. I stopped by Peychaud’s former home today during my walking tour of bars and drinks, which is now unsurprisingly a bar, and had my first Sazerac there, which, according to our guide, was made in the classic manor.

Shawn used to work at 801 Royal, an excellent dive bar, according to him. “Lots of locals came, and it has a pleasant feel,” he said. The bar owners tried to get it going after the pandemic but failed and sold it. It is now the first Vampire Bar. He was not bitter, “things change,” but I could tell he missed 801 Royal.

After that, and turning down Shawn’s belief I could use an Uber to find my hotel for me and have another one, I walked to my hotel one last time, showered, put on my PJs, and read the same Vampire Bar cookbook. I thought it was just a spooky novel, but no, it was a Penny Dreadful-style story in each chapter with a recipe, an unusual take on a cookbook! Reading, the book is a collection of weekly stories with a recipe that were initially published one at a time in magazines. I got only a few words in before I started to nod off.

The morning started with me waking a little later, but the sun was still just rising. I made industrial coffee in the machine. The coffee was weak, and I downed two and forgot one left in the coffee maker. I wrote more than 2000 words and enjoyed the process. I was surprised to see that my neighbors were on what I thought was my balcony. One room has a door to it. I have three. But I am glad they are enjoying it.

I ate the sandwich I put in the frig yesterday, a muffuletta, for breakfast yesterday. I dressed and headed out. Today, I wanted lunch out of the French Quarter and to visit the Frenchman Bookstore on, well, Frenchman Street. It was a long walk, and for fun, my walk covered streets I did not know. It was a warm and sunny day with light humidity.

The bookstore opens at noon. I like that they are open every day but late. Again, not just drinks are consumed in the evenings here in NOLA. I was too early and headed to Frenchman Anytime for lunch. I long waited for excellent rice, beans, and sausage for lunch. I smiled and waited politely, and they soon told me stories about the area and treated me like an old friend. Not looking like a tourist, a smile, and the hat seemed more like a magic spell.

I could not finish that much food and effectively second breakfast/lunch, but I paid with a good tip and waved, and they wished me well and told me to be back soon. The Frenchman Books was relaxed and happy. I walked around, and the two folks smiled and offered me help. They recommended the Vampire Cookbook after I picked it up, their copies signed by the author, “she brings them by when we need more,” they said of the local author. I got a bag and a book. They look forward to my next trip and to see them again.

I walked all the way back, enjoying the familiar sights and the lovely weather—not too hot for me. I stopped at another bookstore. The owner, Steve, found me a signed copy of the local expert’s book on ghost stories. He will ship it for me for four dollars. Excellent.

I reached the New Orleans Cooking School, and they were happy to see me. Chef Terry again greeted me. Today’s demo with Chef Tom was interesting, but the gals I shared my table with, all young enough to be my kids, were less friendly (hungover) and followed along with little emotion. I learned how to make bisque with corn and crab. Interestingly, the first half of the corn is cooked to nothing; it just flavors the soup, and you add some at the end to make the corn visible and chewy in the soup. I also learned not to taste the dish until after it boils as the flavors stabilize and melt into the fat in the food at a boil.

The Etouffee reminded me of others things I made, but Chef Tom cooked 1/3 of The Trinity (onion, celery, green peppers) for an hour, added to join the roux, cooked to a brown color, and then the last 1/3 to be the crunchy version. Layers are important. He also added some Rex’s Crab Boil, just a teaspoon or so, which is not on the recipe. Also, a bit of cane sugar syrup was added. It was good, but both were underspiced. just add a sprinkle, and it was perfect. Excellent.

Soon, the class ended, and Clark from Greyline Tours found me, gave me a punch-boozing drink, and introduced me to an Israeli newlywed couple. I had the cocktail tour also. I could not guess what was in the drink, having just eaten, and I would not know anyway. Clark walked us through the French Quarter and explained the different beverages and which bars, now a blur, serve original versions. The Two Sisters, a restaurant, and a courtyard were lovely. He got us a punch with rum, a Sazerac, and a Moscow Mule as we walked the same few blocks.

I gave the Israeli couple, whose names were lost in the mist of three drinks, my blog URL with its contract option. I may hear from them again. They are next headed to NYC.

I left them at Fritzel’s European Jazz Club, my favorite spot on Bourbon Street, with them trying to decide to risk the vampires and Potions, the secret club that only vampires can get you access to. I did it last trip.

I walked to the steamboat and then right on to the Natchez. It was chaotic, and the crowding activated my situational awareness. I found less of a crowd by the reclaimed engines. The ship was built in 1972 from the parts of an older 1920s ship. I took pictures and videos of the engines. The trip at night means all you see is dark water. Next time, I will skip the dinner cruise and catch it in the daylight!

Dinner was even more chaotic. I was squeezed into a line that made it difficult to stay calm. I was not scared, but situation awareness has you looking for safe exits, and that was over the side at that point! Without incident, I was given a table with one setting and crammed in between others, but it was still lovely, and there was plenty of space to move; I felt safe again. Dinner included the steamboat round of beef (this time, literally true), some crawfish Etouffee, and excellent local veggie options. I ordered a beer, and that seemed to create more complexity. The photo people, who again seemed charmed by my smile, hat, and non-tourist look, chatted with me while I ate. I bought my photo (I took it before I boarded the Natchez), which made them happy, too.

Again, the food was good, and the music was OK when you could hear it over the loud talking. The noise was challenging today, but I don’t think it was me. There were lots of folks talking today.

And that took me full circle as I walked to the bar for a last drink.

Thanks for reading!