I was driving north, and we passed Flint and headed to what we call “up north” in Michigan. I had started early at the hotel, my usual Holiday Inn Express with the industrial complimentary breakfast, and quickly packed and loaded up the rental, an Air Chevy, a hot, red-metallic, smaller SUV with a conventional gas-powered engine. I picked up Deborah and Jeanne at Deborah’s house, and we were out within thirty minutes of the plan.

We had a 1PM plan to ride the glass-bottom boat tour at Alpina to see the shipwreck in the shallows of Thunder Bay. I have watched NOAA videos of these wrecks for years (and of deeper ones not visible from the surface), and once dreamed of finding them when I was young and living in Michigan. I had read about a few of the sinkings before the wrecks were properly explored. We had about 3 1/2 hours of driving, and we started out with enough time to maybe grab a sandwich.

We stopped when a tire on Air Chevy coded. Deborah was familiar with the area, and she soon had us fixed and back in the car (the tire did not leak, and it was likely the high temperature that caused an issue). Maybe we could have a snack in the car and then finish lunch after the trip (I wasn’t thinking it was a good idea for me to eat before getting on a boat where you look down all the time).

We saw a wall of clouds that we met about the same time we left Highway 75 to head east to the shore of Lake Huron. The clouds looked orange to me, and that was the warning. Bad air and smoke were coming. As we were trying to make our time, we only stopped for a moment at a rest area, but we talked about getting some masks. I could smell the smoke even before we hit the gray-filled areas.

While driving in the now smoke-filled gray that removed the loveliness from everything, headlights were now on for most vehicles. We pushed on and called the boat people. They needed 1/2 mile of visibility to take the boat out, we learned, and the smoke was not dissipating (unlike morning fog or clouds). The boat people called later (while we were in an area with no phone service), and the tour was canceled. There was no rebooking for us as we planned to be in the Upper Peninsula the next day. We thought we might catch it on the way back.
We, now with time, stopped at a Meijer’s to get masks (they had only a few N95 masks in two-packs), a game, a swimsuit for me, and a few other things. The smoke seemed thicker when we left, and the water tower of Alpena was now more of a ghost of white on gray.
We found the 14th Hole Grill for lunch and found the gray now also orange as the sun was washed out by smoke. I had a BLT (with lettuce in short supply in Michigan and other states), with Jeanne having a prime rib sandwich and Deborah a fish sandwich. All of it was OK, with the soups (instead of a salad or the ubiquitous French fries) being obvious from a large industrial can.
We found the NOAA museum, free, with an excellent display. There are drawers you pull out full of recovered artifacts, dozens of spoons, nails, even portholes. We actually spent quite a few hours there (out of the smoke), and Deborah found me a $35 NOAA jacket. Had it been combined with the boat tour, it would have been fantastic, but still not bad.
With that done, we headed into the gray twilight with hints of orange to our hotel. It was a Ramada that had seen better days. It looks like it was wrecked once, rebuilt, and then run on a shoestring. Not bad enough to abandon, but disappointing. The rooms were bright and updated. Everywhere showed repaired water damage, and there was no stink of rot.
Burgers mostly, no lettuce, this time. Mixed drinks were $5 and $6 imported beers (on tap), and the lowest dinner ticket in a while. The bartender, Audry, shared that she has no car, rides a bike in, and is now worried about the smoke. She rides a bike even in the winter, but this is the first time she is worried, she shared.
With the driving and the smoke and the stress, I was tired. We canceled all our hotels. I found a wine tour from The Bottle Run that we used last time, and booked us a hotel in St. Joseph far on Lake Michigan in southwestern Michigan. Later, this too would fill with smoke as the hazard flowed across the state from Canada.
I went to bed early and slept most of the night. The travel, time change, and stress had accumulated for me.
Thanks for reading.







