Wednesday

Continuing from Wednesday’s previous blog, we had little to discuss about the airplanes, and it was starting to show. We showered and went out to find the Phallus Museum, yes, there is one. We walked only ten minutes or less to the place, even though it was after 5, and the day was not getting darker. We are very far north, and Iceland is now starting to have twilight around 2ish. We spent an amazing hour examining the members of various animals’ parts, some dismembered (yes, a pun) in bottles like a lab specimen, others stuffed and mounted, and a few made into walking sticks, light fixtures, and furniture. It was a strange museum.

We then went on to find dinner. We saw many excellent choices, but they were expensive and often did not take walk-ins. We finally decided on The Laundromat. It was a food joint we had heard about and I had read about. Deborah had the fish and chips while I tried the salmon. Both were good, and we shared our plates. Deborah had ‘picked wisely’ and had the better meal. The place felt like a college food place and was filled with books. We used a QR code and then placed our order online. It worked well.

After the meal, we walked back and decided that on Thursday, we would try 101 Bistro. It was slightly cheaper and promised its cod was caught the day before. It was still bright outside as we returned to our hotel.

Sleep was difficult for us as we often had it in short naps. Deborah watched the sunset and sunrise (never really dark at night here so far north) at around 3. We both got enough rest once we slept.

Thursday

We rose at 6 to have plenty of time for coffee, showering, dressing in layers, including waterproof pants and a coat, and a rushed breakfast. The front desk at the hotel, Hotel Reyjavik Centrum, gave us directions to Bus Stop 1 (a thing here), and soon we were with a group of Canadians looking for the same Golden Circle with Sky Lagoon tour. A small bus showed up in livery for The Lava Show, but it was our bus (something we learned, check with the bus drivers), and soon we were transported to a central tour place and moved to another crowded bus. We were a bit disappointed, as our seat, one of the few available, had condensation on the window, making it a poor choice.

Despite the slightly blurry view, we enjoyed the hour trip to our first stop. The North American plate ends here in Iceland, and the break and the resultant valley that is the crack are lovely. Our first stop was at this break, and Deborah and I walked down one of the huge cracks and climbed up and down stairs to see a wonderful view. Our layers were working as mist and rain came and went, but we did not get cold or very wet.

Flies would haunt us the whole tour, as the valley had small flies that would hover by your head. You kept moving to avoid them, but even then, they managed to collect somehow. One or two got around my hat, and I think they bit me. It was just enough to keep you moving.

Our tour guide explained what we were seeing, and soon we were back on the bus, off to the next part of the Golden Circle Tour. The women told us about geysers and how most of Iceland drills for hot water and uses heat exchangers to use less corrosive water. I did notice that our hotel used hot water heat, and even the bathroom floor was heated. Hot water is sent through a pipe from a locally drilled thermal plant, and the exchange is completed. Iceland receives a significant amount of rain, and numerous glaciers also provide meltwater.

Deborah and I walked through the geyser park and enjoyed the steam and smell. The colors were bright (even in the damp gray light). We saw the one huge geyser that gives a show every five minutes and were not disappointed by the eruption! We could see inside and watch the water heat, and the surface would move and pulse. Suddenly, a huge bubble-like column of water would rise and shoot high into the sky. We were mesmerized and watched it three times. We turned our backs to walk back to the bus, and it fired off again seconds later, surprising everyone. Marvelous.

We had only minutes left before the bus’s scheduled departure time (they provide this information before you head out), so we grabbed a lamb sandwich for each of us and a Coke Zero and ate standing in front of the bus. Food was not allowed on the bus, nor were drinks (except water).

It was a short drive to the waterfalls. There are long and distant stairs to get to the top of the waterfall. At first, I was hesitant, but I really wanted to give it a try. I would regret not doing it. Deborah was keen. Thus, Deborah and I climbed down and back up to the top of the falls. Some of the area is just wet rock, and the footing was uneven. I was using my waterproof climbing boots (as was Deborah), and they provided good grip on the damp stone and gravel.

I found that my knee hurt when going down. I only needed to take breaks when climbing back–no pain. It was an incredible view next to the water and at the falls. The few ropes and the graveled trails helped. Deborah and I loved it and were so glad we did the climb. We commented on the air, which is clean, damp, and cool but not full of pollen or pollution. It made the climb back much easier.

The bus then went into a dance of dropping off passengers that lasted about an hour. We were sent to yet another bus at the Bus Hostel (we all heard different words and shared all our versions) and said goodbye there to our driver and guide (who were busing doing a process best described, I think, as herding cats, older cats).

Our next stop, for us, the Canadians, and a newly married Finnish couple, was the Sky Lagoon. This is a new location that includes a ritual of hot and cold rooms and a huge swim bath with warm and almost hot water. It is made of lava rocks carefully cut to create a very comfortable steaming infinity pool that looks out at the harbor and the Atlantic. The water was deep enough to keep you covered if you bent your knees.

The pool was terrific, and we spent most of our three hours there before pick-up. Our clothing was stored in lockers (I would drop my wallet and retrieve it, but the cash was removed — about $80), and we had electronic wristbands that allowed us to get a drink from the in-pool bar or, later, coffee as we headed out. It also allowed us to lock and unlock our selected locker (it was important to remember the number, which I did).

They did offer $20 for a bag to protect your phone. We decided to simply enjoy the swim and ritual, and skip the tourist pictures, I’m afraid. I highly recommend Sky Lagoon. Including it at the end of the tour, it was perfect. Our Canadian friends informed us that this was far better than the legendary Blue Lagoon. An Icelander told me it was his first time, but it was the best experience he had ever had. Just pure luck on our side.

The water was not heavily chlorinated or salty with minerals. There was no mud, and the floor was cut and polished lava. The crowd was older and in bathing suits (by rule). Everyone was polite, and the only romance was about hanging out and holding each other, at most. There was security in the pool. The ritual was fun and engaging, but the lagoon was better.

We were sad when our time ran out. We all returned to the lockers and soon (me with less cash) had our stuff and were looking for our bus. It was late. I called them on their Icelandic number, and just as I reached help, the coach pulled in. We were back, and soon everyone said goodbye (we were a good bunch and shared some information with the Canadians). Here is a write-up on Sky Lagoon that Deborah found: here.

Deborah and I returned to the hotel. There, Deborah spent thirty minutes working out an issue with the next tour. Some of the paperwork had gone sideways, and Deborah was happy we called to check on them. We might have had a poor day on Friday had the call not been placed.

Dinner was as planned, at 101 Bistro, only a few minutes away. We had the lamb platter, and Deborah again ordered the fish and chips. We shared our plates, and the food was perfectly prepared and wonderful. Deborah had a cider from Denmark, and I had a local pilsner, which was good, but pilsners can be plain, and this one was.

Fed, we returned to our hotel, picked up towels, stamps for postcards, and arranged for the room to be cleaned daily (it’s optional but complimentary). We spent the rest of the night together and soon slept, but the sky outside was seldom dark. Tonight, Michael (me) woke at 2 a.m. and decided to write the blog and watch the sky change. The street lights were on for maybe a few hours.

Thanks for reading.