The morning started with all of us sleeping in and enjoying the easy day. The National Naval Civil War Museum did not open until 10AM, and there was no reason to rush. I wrote the blog all morning, repacked a few items, and, cheating, wore the clothes I had in my carry-on so I never had to open my suitcase. I had the industrial breakfast, but the usual oatmeal container had a taped note, “Grits.” And they were the slow-cooked, perfect kind. The bacon, while still a thin corporate version, seemed better than usual and had a better crunch. I thanked the staff and handled the basic hotel stuff. I get the rooms, and they pay for them at check-out with their credit cards.
I published the blog, then we loaded, and somehow the bags that fit yesterday refused to fit today in the back area of our black mini-van. We reorganized, and it fit better, but it is still tight. While we waited for others to get ready, I posted the rest of the blog but forgot to send the email. I fixed that while I waited.
We finally had everyone and thought we were 30 minutes from the planned start, but we were soon off and crossed Columbus, Georgia, to the museum on the Chattahoochee River. The city is at the brink of the falls and the limit of the navigable river. Brandon shook my hand as I was a member. He is the museum director and is taking a turn at running the ticket booth and gift shop today. Once our group got assembled and with tickets, we explored the gift store (He showed some of the real Confederate money, Brandon gave an introduction, and then went over to the main attraction, the over 100-foot wreck of the CSS Jackson that was salvaged in the 1960s and now resides in this independent non-profit museum organization (this is not public owned or funded museum). The stern (rear) of the CSS Chattahoochee was recovered when the CSS Jackson was salvaged and is also included in the displays, along with its engines. The view of the CSS Jackson remains takes your breath away. Though burned to the waterline, the original lines are reconstructed by a metal framework over wreckage, and it gives you a feeling for this, the last of the ironclads.
The ship never made it into service and was burned when Columbus was taken by the Union forces, likely with other ships like the CSS Chattahoochee found next to the CSS Jackson. They are restoring some of the armor found in the wreck and reconstructing the burned stern, an ongoing project at the museum. The armor recovered from the wreck is included in reconstructions of other ships and in construction examples, giving it realism.
The destroyed navy yard, also burned by the Union (as was the whole town), has recently been explored by archaeologists, and nails were recovered, including those likely from the construction of the CSS Jackson. They are sold in the gift shop; I got one.
I was happy to see two wrecks, but discovered as we explored the remains of the CSS Alabama (a gun recently salvaged from the famous wreck), lost cargo from the wrecked CSS Georgia when it tried to run the blockage, bits of the CSS Virginia (yes, the former USS Merrimack), the flag of captured ships (on both sides), and the flag from the CSS Arkansas (the wreck is likely buried under a levy and unreachable).
The descriptions were focused not on slavery as much as on battles and the effort by the Union Navy to end trade for the Confederates and support the land campaigns. There were a few notes here and there on slavery. The timelines and relics impressed me. I have not seen such a collection of meaningful items placed in context, sometimes in non-navy actions. The brutality of the American Civil War was apparent.
Columbus was burned like Selma, and the two were burned within a few days of each other by the same Union army.
I would recommend the place; at $12 a ticket, it’s not too expensive. We also looked at the gun collection, and we did NOT pay the $300 to fire the big cannon available for special occasions.
We left, headed to a restaurant, and discovered an old-town section of Columbus that surprised Dondrea and me. Our research has shown only the basics you often find in an army base town; Fort Benning was connected with Columbus. Indeed, a surprisingly lovely downtown.
Dondrea found us a parking spot. She managed to parallel park the minivan, and we applauded. We walked to Black Cow, only a few blocks away. We sat outside with different iced tea varieties and some water. It was hot in the sun, and we enjoyed the warm, excellent weather.
My food was meatloaf that was spicy and good with fried okra on the side. Excellent! Portions were large and nobody was disappointed, but Dondrea tried the pineapple and did not think baked cheese fit it (sort of a mac & cheese, but with pineapple in place of the pasta). Chicken and waffles, poboys, chicken, and burgers are all good.
Dondrea drove again, and after 90 minutes, we hit our next stop. The trip to the Atlanta Airport was a bit stressful as we dropped off Pastor Ken to get his car. We went to the address supplied, and all we found were locked fences and car repair facilities. We then headed to the terminal, found the rental center area, looped around until we spotted a tiny sign, and dropped Ken off. Sadly, Ken found no car available for him and took an Uber to his friend’s house; he is staying with them for this part of the trip.
Dondrea drove us through heavy traffic to the hotel in Atlanta’s Buckhead area. Within an hour, we were at the hotel, checked in, with me having to sign every bill and fill out every section. I never complain about being more detailed when it comes to money.
We headed to our room and, within an hour, were headed to Eclipse di Luna in the minivan. It is a tapas place and we have a light meal, with me getting glasses of excellent Spanish wine. We had lots of little plates that we shared. It was all excellent, and there was music playing just behind us.
The host was surprised that we showed up with six without a reservation, but instead of turning us away, they added a few chairs to a table against the band (not the best place for talking), and it worked. The place was swinging, loud, and happy. Perfect for us.
I scanned a QR code and got the bill to pay. I could somehow split the twenty-plus-something items, but instead headed out, printed a copy, and asked folks to figure out their bill and reimburse me later. I paid the whole thing and got miles for it.
We returned and learned from the traffic inbound (we were outbound) that not just our Eclipse di Luna was swinging, but other places had lines of cars to get in. We had inadvertently discovered the hot new scene in Atlanta. Wow! Miami Circle is it!
Back at the room, I started the blog and talked to Deborah for a while. We put on the video as we are missing each other. It was also the first night when I was rushed, and we could just talk. Donovan, Deborah’s son, suggested a song for our trip: “Union Dixie.” I shared it with the group.
We are headed to church tomorrow, and many were sharing about ironing on a group text. We are excited to attend services at Ebenezer Baptist Church. With some of the blog done, ironing done, and unpacked, I crawled into bed after a shower and soon slept. Dreams were many, many about traveling to find something, and one nightmare that forced me awake at 2:30. I cannot remember it even when I woke and went back to sleep and slept until 5ish, rolled over, and rose before my 6:30 alarm.
Thanks for reading.
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