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I did get some sleep, but I was in bed late, and I woke a few times from noise or something. Sunday is the quieter day of the weekend, but there were still some folks with loud music or car engines. I woke minutes before my 6 a.m. alarm, and five minutes later, it blew me out of the comfortable sleep that had overtaken me. I got up, only to find that another ten minutes had disappeared while I sat on the bed. I think I slept sitting up.

I made coffee from the industrial coffee available in the room. I was mostly packed, but I completed the packing. At one point, my knees were on the case as I zipped it closed, and once again, I am happy with the overpriced luggage that I have used since I needed a roller bag with a suit holder.

I showered and dressed after finishing most of the blog. I had breakfast with Donna and Dondrea at 8:30, and I could finish afterward. As I dressed, I discovered I had no pants. Yes, after all the work of closing the case, my pants were all inside. Ugh! I reversed much of the previous process and retrieved my pants.

Dressed, less packed, I left my room at Le Richelieu Hotel and headed down to the lobby. There, I met Dondrea and Donna and learned that Donna’s flight was delayed (she would get to Salt Lake City, but the aircraft had been changed and her seat was moved to the very back). We picked an easy walk around the block to Envie Espresso Bar & Cafe for breakfast. All the tables were taken, it was cold, and nobody was sitting outside.

Creole Breakfast for Dondrea and me, and our new experience of boudin. This is a local sausage-like product that uses rice and cooked pork. Sort of a burrito sausage with Creole spices. Cheesy grits were nearly perfect, and the biscuit was excellent. Donna had the Traditional Breakfast but was unhappy with the bacon; Donna wants lightly cooked bacon, not crispy. Coffee was in large cups. It was an excellent way to say goodbye to our self-directed tour and enter the next part of the trip.

Donna was soon whisked away in a taxi after we spent another hour packing (or repacking in my case) and writing and publishing the blog. We checked out, and Dondrea arranged a cab to get us to the new hotel, The Hyatt Centric French Quarter, in the reused Holmes Department Store (story here), on the edge of the Quarter. It was a $12 ride, but it was cold and windy, and it was too far to roll bags.

We got our new rooms, and soon I was thinking Le Richelieu Hotel was a better choice. But this was a new area for me, and I should not grumble. This is not the place for balconies. Soon, Dondrea and I met again, now just down to us as others were wandering in various areas, and headed to Sazurac House, as I always wanted to try this place.

We enjoyed the small free mixed drink that, when combined—three small cups—was enough to make me feel it! Their version of a Sazurac was good. We also enjoyed their other beverages, especially the rum ones. A surprise to us. We slowly walked through the three-story museum, or really, an ode to New Orleans mixed drinks. I got a few small gifts, and Dondrea tried to get one of the hard-to-get items in Oregon.

Next, we stopped at Hard Rock Cafe NOLA and, for $30, shared a salad and some Diet Cokes. But we got some quiet and something veggie to eat. It was good to unwind for a while.

Our tour with Telos started at 3 in a conference room, and soon we met the other folks on the tour. Our seven from our church is outnumbered about 4-1 by the South Bend church, but they are a friendly group. Our leader, DeSean, described some of the emotions he thinks we might experience. I have in my notes words like “be faithful to the encounter,” “power to confront injustice,” “balance to show up,” “worked trip for us as a sacred journey and not another group,” and “encounter tension as another as a problem to solve. No.”

We were then asked, “How are you arriving?” and “What hopes do you have for the times together?” Each of us answers the questions after introducing ourselves. I had sat close to the front to hear better, and was first (and had to be reminded to introduce myself). The answers varied, and folks’ backgrounds and expectations were more varied than I expected. The theme of learning and confronting injustice seemed to be one I thought repeated most.

From DeSean, I heard more words that I wrote down: “Being present is important…Legitimize to humanity.. .The world is wide enough…it is the nature of language…trying to say something to not offend is not going to be the solution…Education as liberation (is political), but not natural.”

I avoid telling other people’s stories, dear reader, as you know from this blog. I will just cover my experience and expectations. It was good to hear what others felt, but they will not repeat it here.

We then walked quite a ways back through the Quarter to Congo Square, just outside the Quarter and the old city limits. Here, as I had learned before, was where the enslaved people could meet, dance, trade, and connect. Many say jazz was born here, as people combined sounds to create new music.

On my previous trips, I had read and heard these stories. Please see the links if you are interested.

Our group was already behind schedule, and the park closes at 6. It was already getting dark, the wind bitter, and the temperature dropping. The walking tour of Louis Armstrong Park was rushed, but moving fast kept our guides on subject and us warmer. Half the group did the tour while the other did drumming and dancing in Congo Square, echoing back to the past.

My dancing before the brain tumor surgery was not great, especially rhythmic dancing. I try, but it is hard for me, and my balance issues make it even more difficult. I have to keep my eyes level, as my vision must follow the horizon to provide my only reference for my body’s position. Actually, I was always terrible, but now it is worse.

My drumming wasn’t terrible. We got to switch from dancing to drumming. But I was also trying to watch the dancing and learn what was happening, but that meant my drumming would get worse. I tried to be part of the sound and the feeling, to follow the lead of both, and to be a witness to the singing and dancing. While not entirely successful.

We tried to leave the park, but we got called back to hear some more thoughts, and then called out as it was closing, and dinner was awaiting us. We then walked a long distance, nearly split into two groups, and for a moment, we almost went our own ways. We managed to reassemble and reach Domenica without any losses.

We were in uptown or the warehouse district (it was dark, and I did not know this area), and soon we were headed through the kitchen (the staff banged pans and trays as we marched by, as a welcome) to the private dining area set up for us.

(not ‘chilled money brains,’ or “brains” in your best zombie voice, or Excalibur ala Domenica, but cauliflower roasted served with whipped feta cheese with olive oil)

The food was lovely, and Dondrea got a few recipes from the kitchen for some of the best lighter courses. We chatted and ate, with me buying the wine for the table (food, but not wine or drinks, are covered). We were getting to know the folks from South Bend, and I was happy to find them moderate to liberal and friendly. There were multiple courses served over a few hours. We had a mishap: all the chicken was gone because we realized there was only one set per table. But nobody was hungry or disappointed.

We walked back to the hotel, and after some Christmas Eve church business in Beaverton was covered, we all headed up to our rooms. I was soon writing this blog and texting Dondrea as we both worked into the late evening, encouraging each other.

Thanks for reading! We start again at 8.

 

 

 

 

I am packing and changing hotels today. I hope to finish the blog later today; otherwise, you will read this late on Monday.

Going backwards again, I was in bed around midnight after walking back with Donna and Dondrea to our hotel for one last night there, Le Richelieu Hotel. The night was windy, and the wind was surprisingly bitterly cold. Donna froze, and we all walked back with enthusiasm!

We managed, after first sitting split up and with various poor views, to move to good seats at Fritzel’s European Jazz Club, and the house bands were excellent, if not hot and fun. All eight of us now! Michael R. and Seth got the front seats, while the rest of us eventually got the top bench seat. We did about four sets with Kathy and Doug headed out before the last one, and Michael R. and Seth left a bit later. Ken, Dondrea, Donna, and I finished together, leaving mid-last set to be done before midnight.

The All-stars—the last, best, and house band—was made up of most of the same band we saw on Wednesday, but today blues and jazz were played, not ragtime. Still, it was good. The piano player, whose name I again forgot, from Wednesday, without the cigar this time, sat in for two songs and got to lead for those. His family was with him today (he moved them into some seats that became available between bands) and seemed to have a great time playing for them. He was excellent at playing and singing jazz. His hands flew, and again I did not know how we played that many notes. I was thinking of our own John Nilsen, who makes the piano sound like bell chimes. How these guys do this is a mystery to me. Excellent.

Again, it was Sunday night, and I only like Bourbon Street on Sunday-Wednesday before it is filled with troublesome drunk people who will soon be revisiting their sins when the cheap Hurricane fulfills its promises. Ugh! Look for me on Frenchman Street on those days, instead.

We had to wait before this as the folks arrived from the airport, all our flights worked, and we collected at Nepolean House. The hostess, looking besieged on a Sunday Night (but it was a game night for the Saints, the much-decried local NFL team), waited for us to collect everyone. A group of two tables inside (out of the cold wind) became available just as folks arrived. We were soon seated, and we enjoyed various sandwiches. Dondrea, Donna, and I got our excellent bread pudding, while Michael R. and Seth split a hot muffalata sandwich. Ken, Kathy, and Doug were at the other table and tried various sandwiches, including another muffalata. We chatted and caught up. There we left for Bouban Street and enjoyed some of the street bands on our way to Friztel’s. Bourban Street was already loud, but the crowd was subdued and cold. The wind was sharp now that the sun was done!

Before this, we picked for lunch after hearing the recommendation on our Grayline bus, and I was always curious, as I had never tried it, New Orleans Creole Cookery. I had only two beignets (which Seth said were like funnel cakes —I agree) and coffee before. And a mint julip with booze in it (I thought I ordered a virgin one; it was a happy bus ride back). I had the everything sampler while others picked food which focused on what they could eat (Ken and Donna) or wanted (Dondrea). It was not cheap, but it was excellent, and Donna, Dondrea, and I kept to an easy meal and a heavy meal with maybe a snack later.

We ate outside, and once in a while the wind would blow, knocking menus out of our hands or causing other minor problems. We had a heater above us, but it kept getting colder. The good hot food made it work.

Before this, we were on a Grayline Tour of the Oak Alley Plantation with more focus on the economics of slavery than the evils of the institution and the terrors it brought to its victims. The slave quarters are partially reconstructed, and there is an excellent message there in your own self-guided tour, reading the signs and seeing the engine of slavery. Most terrible for me is the names of the slaves they have found in the records (80% still existing, according to the tour guide, though the personal letters are gone). The plaque reads that these names may be all the record of these people that exists!

The tour and the grounds are great, and I stopped by, as I said, got a drink, and didn’t taste the booze at first. Wells, our tour guide in the house, gave a good tour, slowly brought slavery into the discussion, and then covered it. According to our guide, this plantation house represents the owners, not the source of work or wealth, but rather the users of the labor of others. The plantation seldom made money, and the original owners died trying to make it work. The land was eventually divided, with the sugar barons buying the crop land. The plantation really existed for about twenty years. I have often taught the irony of the South: that sugar and plantations never really worked—a story seldom told.

Before all of this, I rose at 6:30 (ugh!), wrote the blog quickly, dressed, and met Donna and Dondrea for our usual couple of thousand steps to the louder section of the French Quarter. We found Cafe Beugnet’s food, though still doused in a load of powdered sugar, better than the others we tried. We had, starting out at 8:30, reach the place just ahead of the 9ish crowd. Pastor Ken was missing, and we heard from him that he was running late. He just made it, and I was the last person on the bus, having got him coffee from the now-packed cafe.

The bus ride (and back) was enjoyable, with a video playing on monitors about the various plantations—most open only occasionally to the public—and the story of Hurricane Katrina told by folks in New Orleans. The ride along Lake Pontchartrain and over the Mississippi on the longest bridge of its type was fascinating.

The bus driver stopped first at the Whitney, and we will be there on Tuesday—I will leave that story for then. We then took the River Road along the Mississippi and saw more of the remains of the plantations’ parcels of land. Sugar Cain fields are everywhere, and the levy now tall on the Mississippi. Each was a narrow but long parcel serviced by the road and the river. Large trees in a line were often the only signs of what once stood there. But this was the land of back-breaking, deadly sugar work, and the dinners and privileges of others living off unpaid labor.

It was a good day and we learned and enjoyed, but never without paying or a tip. Unlike the famous threat of Odysseus against the sponges off of others’ labor, everything was paid for!

Thanks for reading!

Saturday ended with us saying goodnight to Ken, who had to walk back across the French Quarter to his hotel, and with us—Dondrea, Donna, and me—heading to our rooms at Le Richelieu Hotel. With my alarm set, I soon fell asleep and slept better despite all the noise. Saturday Night is loud in the French Quarter, though quieter here near Marigny, where the hotel stands.

Chuck Redd Vibes Quartet was at Snug Harbor off of Frenchman Street in Marigny, not the Quarter, and we had tickets for four. Before this, we had a chaotic dinner at Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro, but the food was excellent. I had fried oyasters with, of all things, a usual baked potato with the usual fixings. Ken had three bowls of their local flavors: Jambalaya, gumbo, and estouffée. Dondrea and Donna, still stuffed from brunch, split a burger with a baked potato. Donna and Dondrea finished first and headed out to the stage to get us our table. Ken and I followed after we finished and paid the bill.

The Quartet was excellent, and again, we are amazed to find even better-performed jazz. It is like New Orleans ups the challenge to be better for us each night. While a vibraphone is not something I would pick as a jazz instrument, Chuck Redd owned it. The band members, all assembled for this play, were excellent (I don’t remember the names), and some were well known, according to what I was told. From the crowd, a legendary drummer took over for a few songs, and he seemed to challenge the band with his playing. I saw Chuck Redd smile or nod when the drummer did something tricky to the sound and then responded on the vibraphone with some matching play, add something,  and then looked at the drummer with a ‘so top that’ look. The bass player and gitar player also had their chance. It was a night of jazz challenges called and answered.

Chuck’s wife we learned was in the front row and was clapping, smiling, and call out through the show. The last song was her’s, named for her (sorry, again I forgot the name), and there was a pause, ever so slight, and there was a single clap from her seemly built into the song, and a big smile on Chuck as he then flew across his instrument and produced a melody that seemed to caress her. It was wonderful to see this and hear her laugh as he surprised her with little changes.

Before this, we found seats at The Maison, and I had some chicken wings from a basket that Ken ordered; he flew in today, and we had music and caught up. Next, we stopped by the same art show, Dondrea and I both got notebooks for only $5 (I then lost mine at Snug Harbor–setting it down somewhere and forgetting to get it). Before this, we met at the hotel as Ken walked 25 minutes from the other side, where the Hyatt is.

We went shopping before Ken arrived, and this included multiple used book stores with one overflowing and a tight squeeze between things. I picked out a few things at each and had them shipped home to Oregon. We also stopped by some mask shops and the cooking school to get a few items (again, Dondrea and Donna had that shipped home).

We then stopped by Muriel’s Jackson Square and sat for a while to enjoy some drinks from the bar and their Séance Lounge upstairs and past the ghost table. The table is set to calm the previous owner who took his life after, according to what I read, losing his home, now Muriel’s, in a poker game. While we did not see any ghosts or anything strange, we did meet quite a few folks and chatted while enjoying our drinks.

 

We also stopped by the marvelous New Orleans History Museum, which covered the area’s history and the Civil Rights movement in NOLA. It was a good introduction and I liked it. We met some folks who tried the voter test, a voter suppression technique before it became illegal, but they failed on the math section.

(One of my chess hero’s set)

Brunch, with its lines of food, banging of plates, and often average food, is not my usual scene. The Court of the Two Sisters is rightfully known for its brunch on Saturday and Sunday. We made no reservation, but arrived before 9, when the tourist swarm seems to hit, and got in without waiting.

I tried little bits of everything I thought was good. The food, staff, and music were terrific. The turtle soup was good, and it was only my second time having that. I was smoky and good.

Running out of time this morning…I will say I had written the blog the night before…slept in to 7ish and wrote some postcards, and then waited, then met Donna and Dondrea to head to brunch. Thanks for reading!

 

 

The morning started with me rising before my alarm. I had trouble sleeping as I did not want to miss my alarm; I kept waking up. I managed broken sleep and rose before my 6:30 alarm around 6, and started on the long blog for Thursday’s busy day. It took me until 8:45 to finish. I wrote and did the usual things, including making coffee using the in-room coffee maker and updating Quicken. I jumped in the shower and soon we met downstairs.

We walked toward the Mississippi River, then to the French Market, and finally to Cafe du Monde.  Today it was powdered sugar and beignets! And we got some of their smooth coffee with chicory. We ordered two small orders of the fried sweet-style bread, two each, for breakfast. It was loud and crowded, and we did not need to reexperience this.

After that, we walked to the Hop-on Hop-off Bus for New Orleans (NOLA), bought a day pass for over $50 each (cheaper than Uber), and soon were enjoying a view from the top of the bus and a tour guide covering the area. I think it is the best way to see the city (though I have not tried the streetcar), and soon we were out of the French Quarter and in the central city.

It always reminds me of the land-of-expense-reports and conventions. The places seem mostly to cater to the accident tourists of business travelers. There are always a few places I wish I had time for—some jazz and food places—but so far I have stayed in the French Quarter and the Garden District.

The same is true for the World War 2 museum; someday I will spend a few days looking and then return on other trips to cover the parts I missed. But again, I never fit it in.

We leave the bus on the edge of the Garden District and decide on Gris-Gris for dinner. This is an on-the-edge southern restaurant, and we are given the kitchen bar location. We get to watch them make the food. The place does not disappoint. Dondrea has the chicken gizzards over grits and a bowl of gumbo. We shared the gizzards, and it was amazing. I tasted the gumbo, and it was terrific, with extra flavors that might be from filé gumbo powder. I had the pot toast, recommended by our waiter; it was a dream. Donna tried a bowl of gumbo with a wonderful house salad. It was a joy and a pleasure to eat and watch the cooking. Recommended!

We headed back to stop 11 on the Hop-on Hop-off, and Dondrea ran to the bus to hold it up while Donna and I caught up. Without too much trouble, we then continued the tour on the bus, entered the Garden District proper, and saw all the expensive homes and mansions, including Ann Rice’s former home.

We rode the bus back into the French Quarter. I am someday going to get off at Riverwalk, walk the levee of the Mississippi River, look into the paddlewheel there (I have done the one in the French Quarter), take a tour, and maybe visit the aquarium, too. But not today.

We stopped at the Marigny area and soon walked the one block (I first started the wrong way) to Frenchman Street near Washington Park. I am happy to see we are near Snug Harbor and The Spotted Cat jazz clubs. We walk the path towards the Mississippi River, and soon hear excellent jazz and smell great food, but we are not looking for food right now!

We find that The Maison, our target, is not yet open, and head back a few doors to the 30/90 to find a seat. Daphne Lee Martin was belting out an eclectic mix of jazz, folk, blues, and hints of rock with her band. We heard the end of the first set and stayed for three more, sipping soda pop drinks with the mixology class on our mind. I talked to the lead singer on one break, and they will be in Oregon later. I will have to try to find her. I signed the guest book and hope to get some information.

Daphne Lee Martin and the band kept getting better and better as they played. Their last sets are excellent. We leave before the final song, as it is time for The Maison Mixology Class. During the break between sets, I noticed the jazz club was now open, so I talked to folks and learned what we needed to do.

We climbed to a balcony-like area in Maison with a bar, and Chris, our bartender and teacher, was ready for us. Donna and Dondrea were partners, and I got Chris because there was an odd number. Excellent. We could tell that Chris knows his stuff and the history of his drinks. I hear him revising the history I had heard in a bar-hopping tour in the French Quarter on one of my trips. Chris showed us how to shake and open the shaker. He pours the booze for legal reasons, but the rest of the work was ours. There were six folks besides us three. We were soon shaking, straining, and tasting. We make a Pimm’s Cup first, and mine was bright and refreshing. Next, the Hurricane, made following the original recipe rather than the industrial version, was quite good. Chris won’t split that one with me, and I drink much of it with Donna, taking some too. With fresh juices and less sugar, it too seemed a refreshing drink; but, beware, it is full of rum you do not taste!

Chris makes us each a Sazerac, though we get to stir it, all of us trying to get the proper bartender motion. I add the garnish, and it makes for a softer, more expressive drink than the ones I have had. Even Donna liked it.

Vieux Carre is a mix of two drinks, and we quickly put it together, and it is, unlike the Sazerac, not fragile. It is not at all boozy like a Saerac, but it beguiles you as it is full of booze. It was lovely; I had never had one before.

We talked to Chris for a while after the drinks were done. We were all quite happy. We learned that Chris is in his last nursing classes. He is moving to the medical field. We talked about various drinks, discovered he was a gun collector, and discussed guns a bit.

We managed to get off the stools without falling to the floor! We got downstairs and were granted a table on the main floor; I had been very polite when asking for help earlier (polite works here), and they were willing to seat us. I also think they are proud of their class and us students.

We enjoyed The Shotgun Jazz Band (here). They were great musicians and show people. I could watch them over and over. We got some light items—still stuffed and now tipsy—we tried the fries with gumbo. An excellent alternative to a bowl of soup. I also ordered 6 oysters in the Rockefeller format. Dondrea had two. They were perfect.

We left The Maison after the band finished, thanking the staff. The drag show stars were outside to advertise their later show in the upper area. We decided to stick to our promise to get some sleep tonight and not stay up all night, or at least late.

We found the night art show was on and did it as a side trip on the way out. It was full of edgy art that Dondrea pointed out had a different, if not strange, feel. I agreed.

We walked the four blocks back to our hotel. We arrived without issue, and soon I was back in my room.

I spent the rest of the evening writing this blog. It is louder tonight. I like the sleepy days better, Mon-Thur.

Thanks for reading.

 

I woke before my alarm at 6ish and soon made coffee and wrote the story of Wednesday and our first partial day in New Orleans (NOLA). The hotel, Le Richelieu, with its balconies and thin walls, can be loud, but as we are far from the crowds, I again slept well. The ten thousand steps might have something to do with the sleeping.

I wrote the blog and soon finished a summary of the day before showering, dressing, and all that. I also ran Quicken, and updates flowed in, including my payment for my new insurance, paid in advance via the government website. I keep a close watch on accounts.

I met Dondrea and Donna, ready to start the next adventure, and we headed to French Toast in the quarter. We walked for about five minutes, and there was no line when we arrived. But they were busy inside, and we took a table outside. Soon, we ordered classic breakfasts (with grits) for Dondrea and me, but Donna gave the eggs and salmon a spin. Lots of coffee marked that we were in a two-hour time difference. Little birds kept landing, and some even chirped to beg for food. Yes, I was panhandled by chickadees!

We then explored the much-reduced flea market and farmer’s market. It was closer to Portland’s Saturday market with local crafts and food shops than a Farmer’s Market in Seattle or LA. We managed to resist the author selling their books directly; one sold the story of rising the rails and made a movie I had heard of. Hats were tempting (more so now that mine is lost, but that happens later).

I had some colon issues; I only mention it as folks wonder how I am doing after colon cancer, and I found the necessary public space to manage that. We were able to proceed.

Having enjoyed the markets, we headed to Jackson Square and walked around the area. Donna, with her cane and brace, was doing well with all the walking. My legs were already complaining, but I worked through it and was fine.

John Cosentino, in a green cart with two seats, offered a mule-cart tour for a few bucks more than the usual wait-and-then-go tour. We took him up on it, and Dondrea asked to see the LaLaurie Mansion, famous for its haunted reputation. He was local and soon told us a few stories (most of which are now forgotten). He did tell us he had never seen a ghost. Dondrea got a picture of the LaLaurie Mansion.

We next wandered the quarter and found the Faulkner Museum and Bookstore. I found one book—a remake of the Bluebook from Storyland—listing the services provided by prostitutes. Dondrea spoke to the book seller about Faulkner, not her favorite author, and he agreed he is hard to read, then pointed out a book of stories Faulkner wrote while living in this building. Dondrea bought one.

We next walked to one of the Vampire bars, and it was having trouble as water was cut off during the road construction, ugh. We walked to the Vampire Cafe instead.

A tall man with fangs found us a table. The napkins were red and folded in a bat form. The silverware was across it, suggesting a cross. The place was appropriately gothic. Later, a man in a kilt would sit next to us. He had a marine belt over his kilt, and we soon struck up a conversation with him. He was here for a fair, trying the place out.

We had drinks, mine the AB+, which is their version of a Sazerac, Donna and Dondrea found other blood types that fit their tastes. We ordered some excellent appetizers (still full from breakfast): fried deviled eggs, pork belly bits, and baked Brie (with walnuts on the side, as Dondrea is allergic to them). Our waiter brought us a book from the owner about the local vampires, with a suggestion to look for her at the other restaurant if we bought it and wanted it signed. Dondrea picked up a copy. Our waiter retold the coffin girls’ story (here) and then granted us a pass to Potions. We also were ‘bit’ and she handed us decals to wear showing the bite marks (we did not get those on yet).

Instead of heading to our hotel, six blocks away, we strolled towards Crescent City Books near the end of the French Quarter. There were plenty of stores worthy of a look as we went. A French importer was selling an Art Deco absinthe serving set that Dondrea thought was terrific. They showed us tablecloths and other tempting items.

We did not escape a hat store’s temptations. Dondrea has a new hat to take back with her. I demurred.

The area is full of art studios, jewelry stores, and various forms of antiques and exotic imports. We stopped at many, but most were window-shopped. The least tempting type of visit. But we reached Crescent City Books, and soon I was in for less than $100—low for me—with a copy of General Hood’s (Confederate) account of his experiences in the American and Confederate military. I also found an account of the NYC 1920s-30s about speakeasies published in the 1930s. Interesting. Both are being mailed to my house.

We next walked back to our hotel and soon passed many familiar places. It is more than ten blocks back. Donna will soak her foot in the pool. I rested and napped for a while in my room before dressing in a dress shirt, sweater vest, tie, and dress shoes. Dondrea arranged for a taxi to Arnaud’s (here).

While expensive, it is not overly so, and we had a great time there (about $120 each with drinks and dessert). I had the veal, Dondrea the quail, and the best Filet Mignon I have tasted (we all shared). We all tried the excellent turtle soup, and it was the first time any of us had anything like it. It was a complex, smoky flavor. We added their famous soufflé potatoes and okra. The service is an art and a performance that you will not often find with old-school meals. Customers, there is a dress code, and I was reminded to hang my hat on a hook. Most are dressed up a bit, but with few ties. We had dressed up a bit for dinner. Our last treat was Banana Foster for Dondrea and me (Donna picked a baked Alaska), which burned at the table—spectacular—and we got some glances from other diners for the show.

We walked to Potions, taking our pass, and headed to Bourbon Street and Fritzel again. We were tossed beads by folks on a balcony. Potions requires a pass and is above my favorite Jazz place on Bourbon Street. We had to pay a cover, and on the card we were given were words we needed to say. We read the card’s words aloud (the password), the door unlocked, and we walked up the twisty stairs.

Somewhere here, I lost my hat and suspect it was found and tossed off the balcony like beads. I will likely see a replacement here. I have lost hats all over the world. I added a new story about losing a hat in New Orleans—no reason to mourn. No photos in the speakeasy. Dondrea had her tarot reading there, and we all had interesting drinks. The balcony overlooks the Bourban Street, and it was a lovely night to sit there and drink our drinks.

Hatless and all of us a bit happy, we walked back to our hotel. Dondrean and Donna were surprised by the change in vibe on Bourbon Street and glad we did Wednesday there. We won’t be back for the weekend, yike! I like the street only at the beginning of the week. It seems friendly—maybe hungover from the weekend, starting on Thursday—for Monday-Wednesday, and good for some music.

Back at the hotel, we headed to our rooms, and I was soon asleep.

Thanks for reading.