Saturday

We put two empty days in our travel plan for Iceland. This would allow us to rest and also add tours, as well as simply walking in Old Town Reykjavik, where our hotel, Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, was located (and ‘Old Town’ in this case referred to the period of 781 +/- 2 AD). We rose with the sun, bright in our room in the morning. We had tickets to an afternoon of Organ music at the Lutheran church that towers over Old Town, Hallgrímskirkja. There is a vast pipe organ there, and we wanted to hear it.

First, we dressed and all that and headed for breakfast at the hotel. It is a treat each morning with a mix of hot food, cold meats, locally made yogurt, cereal, and various baked goods. With the high cost of restaurant food and the time investment to get it, having breakfast included was an excellent choice.

We were dressed in layers as we had also signed up for a puffin cruise out to the island full of the cute little birds. But it was sunny and, for Reykjavik, warm. We were soon peeling off the layers and trying to walk the hill to the church on the shady side of the street!

We had to wait for the tourists to leave the church and for the ticket collectors to be ready. We sat directly behind the organist, but a few rows back. The row in front of us was then filled, but we could still see. Soon the church filled with concert goers.

I was disappointed, as my hearing loss prevented me from making out some of the subtle sounds, but the sound still filled the room. The organist was immensely talented and knew the machinery well, and was all but dancing with his hands and feet. The stops would also shoot out here and there as he reset things. The organ was set to a more musical level of volume, but I often like them to vibrate the floor.

The organist played a set of Bach pieces, which I suspect I had heard before but did not recognize. They were full of clashing pipe sounds as you, dear reader, would expect. The final pieces were from the 1800s and included the final piece that Deborah thought would make a score for a horror movie (It roughly translated as “Thank God for All Things”).

We skipped, again, the tour of the tower’s long line and headed out. We found a crepe shop nearby and tried that for breakfast. It was not as good as we hoped. It was stuffed full of bright toys and other knick-knack items. We spotted the famous Loki food joint, renowned for fermented shark and other bizarre food options. Just a photo for us!

We had plenty of time, and it was a relaxed day for us. Deborah and I wandered the Rainbow Road area, visiting various bookshops and the usual tourist shops. We decided that BakaBaka was worthy of a stop, got a table, and there were lovely baked goods and more coffee. It takes a lot of coffee for us to keep up this pace! We saved part of the excellent items for later.

We walked the rest of the way down the hill to get to the harbor. Along the way, we encountered a troll with whom we took a picture. We enjoyed the walk down the mountain. We soon were at the tour place. The staff there asked us about the organ concert, as we were concerned it would be longer and make us rush. It was good, but an hour of organ music is a lot. We had joked with the staff the day before when we bought the tickets that we might have to walk out after the intermission, which was four hours long (it was more like forty minutes).

We waited about 30 minutes for the tour, and I nodded off a few times while we waited. The sun, food, and music had me feeling quite peaceful. We soon boarded a small boat with only a partial cover in the front. It became clear (we ran aground once) that a small, shallow, and strong boat was the best choice for getting close to the island filled with puffins.

The puffins are small (there are stuffed animal versions in all sizes all over Reykjavik, and we learned that the Star Wars Porg was actually a bit of movie magic as puffins were everywhere in the shot, and it was easier (and cheaper) to create a porg creature to place over the puffins. Funny!

Puffins are cute and, though not related to penguins, do swim better than they fly. Seeing them beat their wings so fast and all together in a colony just overwhelms you with cuteness. I can see why there was a tour.

We spent about forty minutes taking photos and being bounced around by waves and hitting rocks. It was a lovely time, and I recommend incorporating this into a short tour on an easy day in Reykjavik, like we did. This, along with a visit to Sky Lagoon, would make for a nice mix.

We headed to the famous hot dog stand, but alas, a bus or some other tour group had flooded the place with a line over the road! We popped over to the 24-hour store and got some cheap-ish (there is no cheap in Iceland) sandwiches, chips, and drinks. Deborah also found a recommended book, Miss Iceland. We ate our dinner on the bench and soon headed (again!) up the hill towards the church. We found the Bookstore again and this time took a comfortable table in the front, purchased some beverages, and were ready for the band.

We danced and sang along, shouting Queen and Abba songs until 11ish. It was a fun time with Deborah, who remembered her Tina Turner moves at one point. The crowd, always friendly, soon blocked our view, and we joined them for dancing and singing.

We managed to find our way back without incident. The crowd seemed friendly, but we did have to walk back up the hill (again!) when we discovered Deborah had left her newly purchased book at our table. She was able to recover it (though a sleeping gentleman was using our table). We soon returned to our hotel and went to sleep. It was late.

I think I will do one day at a time. Thanks for reading!

 

We rose slowly and started our Friday with a trip around noon, and we could go at a leisurely pace. I had woken up at 2 and wrote the blog as the sunrise began at 3:30. I still managed to sleep after that and woke with more light. Friday, the skies were gray and then mixed. We would need our waterproof clothing again as we had a boat ride today.

We managed to get started, showered, and down for breakfast at the hotel. It is an excellent mix of hot food, yogurt options (Icelandic style), and baked goods. I could have used a larger cup for the coffee.

Under the hotel where we are staying, there is a museum. While rebuilding the hotel and attempting to construct a parking garage, it was discovered that one of the oldest settlement sites in Iceland was located beneath the buildings. A long house and an older wall were found just beneath a layer of volcanic ash, indicating that the remains were dated to 841 ± 2 years. They left much of the site exposed and in place in an underground museum. The ruins were now many meters below the surface. It was a treat to see the actual walls and firepits from what was likely a chieftain’s home, and some possible names match the text from writings about (and near) the same period.

This adjoined the City Museum of Reykjavik. As the name suggests, this exhibit is about the settlement’s evolution into a town and then a city. It was surprising to see how progressive Iceland has been. Slavery ended long ago, and although it was claimed by Denmark, Iceland gained independence during WW2, despite being considered sovereign since WW1. Iceland has absolute wage equality, and gay rights are equally protected.

After visiting the underground area and the City Museum, we headed to Bus Stop 1. The bus was not there, and we learned, after calling, that it would arrive 15 minutes later (everyone says to be 15 minutes early, and this time this was stacked two deep). Soon, our bus found us and took us for a nice, short ride. We could have walked in seven minutes.

Whale watching in July in Iceland off of Reykjvik is cold and windy. It is also wet and misty. I did get cold a few times (I had not put on a sweater under my coat), but Deborah was warm. Also, the waves just jostle you around a bit, and walking from one side of the ship to the other to see the whales could be difficult. We soon kept on one hand on the ship as we moved.

A giant wasp found its way to me, and Deborah was worried I would get stung. We managed, with me being oblivious, to get it knocked off me (it was cold and slow-moving) and killed before it did its worst. Yike!

We wandered a bit on the ship until we found a few seats on the top deck. The lower decks smelled of fuel, and sea sickness seemed like a real possibility were we to remain there. The ship was not packed, but it was busy, and soon we were in a light chop in the harbor that connects to the North Atlantic in a wide arc (I am not sure I would call it a harbor, but it was shallow).

I have not seen humpback whales before. The ship found a couple of pairs of whales after about thirty minutes of slow steaming out into the bay. I had seen many blows from a distance and pointed them out to Deborah. I am used to looking for them for our smaller gray whales on the Oregon Coast. I believe I also saw a Minke whale, a smaller whale.

I had a few balance issues when the ship moved one way and I moved the other. The captain, at one moment, turned the boat hard to get closer to some whales, and I was not ready. I managed to stay standing. Deborah headed to the bow (front) without me for more views and pictures. I stayed in the less jostled stern (back) as my balance is based on keeping my eyes on the horizon and not my inner ear like most folks. The brain surgery left me with only 1/2 my hearing and balance on one side.

It was a marvelous adventure, and we had many opportunities to see the whales up close. We returned and found lunch/dinner at Old Harbor House on the pier after checking out many more expensive places. We got a counter-like seat pointed at the harbor and then ordered from the bar. Deborah had wonderful salmon while I had the burger and beer special. We also had coffee and then again coffee with dessert, two slices. One dessert was a version of berry and cheesecake, and the other was apple crumble. Both were excellent, and we kept changing our minds about which was our favorite.

We walked back after waving off the bus (though we had paid for it, we learned, the transfer costing us about $20 each!). We saw some interesting places, one of which sold me a T-shirt, and soon reached our hotel by yet another route.

We were back out on the street to enjoy the midnight sun. We stopped by Hús máls og menningar, a bookstore and bar during the day (a good combination, we thought), and the local band was singing covers of 90s USA hits with the crowd singing along. Everything was in English. After that, we headed to Ægir Brugghus and had drinks (locally made rice beer and a Danish-made cider for Deborah). After that, we wandered a bit and headed back to the room. We were in bed late and fell asleep immediately. I did not wake until minutes before my alarm at 7.

 

 

(Shark? Fermented?

(Rainbow Street at midnight)

Thanks for reading.

Wednesday

Continuing from Wednesday’s previous blog, we had little to discuss about the airplanes, and it was starting to show. We showered and went out to find the Phallus Museum, yes, there is one. We walked only ten minutes or less to the place, even though it was after 5, and the day was not getting darker. We are very far north, and Iceland is now starting to have twilight around 2ish. We spent an amazing hour examining the members of various animals’ parts, some dismembered (yes, a pun) in bottles like a lab specimen, others stuffed and mounted, and a few made into walking sticks, light fixtures, and furniture. It was a strange museum.

We then went on to find dinner. We saw many excellent choices, but they were expensive and often did not take walk-ins. We finally decided on The Laundromat. It was a food joint we had heard about and I had read about. Deborah had the fish and chips while I tried the salmon. Both were good, and we shared our plates. Deborah had ‘picked wisely’ and had the better meal. The place felt like a college food place and was filled with books. We used a QR code and then placed our order online. It worked well.

After the meal, we walked back and decided that on Thursday, we would try 101 Bistro. It was slightly cheaper and promised its cod was caught the day before. It was still bright outside as we returned to our hotel.

Sleep was difficult for us as we often had it in short naps. Deborah watched the sunset and sunrise (never really dark at night here so far north) at around 3. We both got enough rest once we slept.

Thursday

We rose at 6 to have plenty of time for coffee, showering, dressing in layers, including waterproof pants and a coat, and a rushed breakfast. The front desk at the hotel, Hotel Reyjavik Centrum, gave us directions to Bus Stop 1 (a thing here), and soon we were with a group of Canadians looking for the same Golden Circle with Sky Lagoon tour. A small bus showed up in livery for The Lava Show, but it was our bus (something we learned, check with the bus drivers), and soon we were transported to a central tour place and moved to another crowded bus. We were a bit disappointed, as our seat, one of the few available, had condensation on the window, making it a poor choice.

Despite the slightly blurry view, we enjoyed the hour trip to our first stop. The North American plate ends here in Iceland, and the break and the resultant valley that is the crack are lovely. Our first stop was at this break, and Deborah and I walked down one of the huge cracks and climbed up and down stairs to see a wonderful view. Our layers were working as mist and rain came and went, but we did not get cold or very wet.

Flies would haunt us the whole tour, as the valley had small flies that would hover by your head. You kept moving to avoid them, but even then, they managed to collect somehow. One or two got around my hat, and I think they bit me. It was just enough to keep you moving.

Our tour guide explained what we were seeing, and soon we were back on the bus, off to the next part of the Golden Circle Tour. The women told us about geysers and how most of Iceland drills for hot water and uses heat exchangers to use less corrosive water. I did notice that our hotel used hot water heat, and even the bathroom floor was heated. Hot water is sent through a pipe from a locally drilled thermal plant, and the exchange is completed. Iceland receives a significant amount of rain, and numerous glaciers also provide meltwater.

Deborah and I walked through the geyser park and enjoyed the steam and smell. The colors were bright (even in the damp gray light). We saw the one huge geyser that gives a show every five minutes and were not disappointed by the eruption! We could see inside and watch the water heat, and the surface would move and pulse. Suddenly, a huge bubble-like column of water would rise and shoot high into the sky. We were mesmerized and watched it three times. We turned our backs to walk back to the bus, and it fired off again seconds later, surprising everyone. Marvelous.

We had only minutes left before the bus’s scheduled departure time (they provide this information before you head out), so we grabbed a lamb sandwich for each of us and a Coke Zero and ate standing in front of the bus. Food was not allowed on the bus, nor were drinks (except water).

It was a short drive to the waterfalls. There are long and distant stairs to get to the top of the waterfall. At first, I was hesitant, but I really wanted to give it a try. I would regret not doing it. Deborah was keen. Thus, Deborah and I climbed down and back up to the top of the falls. Some of the area is just wet rock, and the footing was uneven. I was using my waterproof climbing boots (as was Deborah), and they provided good grip on the damp stone and gravel.

I found that my knee hurt when going down. I only needed to take breaks when climbing back–no pain. It was an incredible view next to the water and at the falls. The few ropes and the graveled trails helped. Deborah and I loved it and were so glad we did the climb. We commented on the air, which is clean, damp, and cool but not full of pollen or pollution. It made the climb back much easier.

The bus then went into a dance of dropping off passengers that lasted about an hour. We were sent to yet another bus at the Bus Hostel (we all heard different words and shared all our versions) and said goodbye there to our driver and guide (who were busing doing a process best described, I think, as herding cats, older cats).

Our next stop, for us, the Canadians, and a newly married Finnish couple, was the Sky Lagoon. This is a new location that includes a ritual of hot and cold rooms and a huge swim bath with warm and almost hot water. It is made of lava rocks carefully cut to create a very comfortable steaming infinity pool that looks out at the harbor and the Atlantic. The water was deep enough to keep you covered if you bent your knees.

The pool was terrific, and we spent most of our three hours there before pick-up. Our clothing was stored in lockers (I would drop my wallet and retrieve it, but the cash was removed — about $80), and we had electronic wristbands that allowed us to get a drink from the in-pool bar or, later, coffee as we headed out. It also allowed us to lock and unlock our selected locker (it was important to remember the number, which I did).

They did offer $20 for a bag to protect your phone. We decided to simply enjoy the swim and ritual, and skip the tourist pictures, I’m afraid. I highly recommend Sky Lagoon. Including it at the end of the tour, it was perfect. Our Canadian friends informed us that this was far better than the legendary Blue Lagoon. An Icelander told me it was his first time, but it was the best experience he had ever had. Just pure luck on our side.

The water was not heavily chlorinated or salty with minerals. There was no mud, and the floor was cut and polished lava. The crowd was older and in bathing suits (by rule). Everyone was polite, and the only romance was about hanging out and holding each other, at most. There was security in the pool. The ritual was fun and engaging, but the lagoon was better.

We were sad when our time ran out. We all returned to the lockers and soon (me with less cash) had our stuff and were looking for our bus. It was late. I called them on their Icelandic number, and just as I reached help, the coach pulled in. We were back, and soon everyone said goodbye (we were a good bunch and shared some information with the Canadians). Here is a write-up on Sky Lagoon that Deborah found: here.

Deborah and I returned to the hotel. There, Deborah spent thirty minutes working out an issue with the next tour. Some of the paperwork had gone sideways, and Deborah was happy we called to check on them. We might have had a poor day on Friday had the call not been placed.

Dinner was as planned, at 101 Bistro, only a few minutes away. We had the lamb platter, and Deborah again ordered the fish and chips. We shared our plates, and the food was perfectly prepared and wonderful. Deborah had a cider from Denmark, and I had a local pilsner, which was good, but pilsners can be plain, and this one was.

Fed, we returned to our hotel, picked up towels, stamps for postcards, and arranged for the room to be cleaned daily (it’s optional but complimentary). We spent the rest of the night together and soon slept, but the sky outside was seldom dark. Tonight, Michael (me) woke at 2 a.m. and decided to write the blog and watch the sky change. The street lights were on for maybe a few hours.

Thanks for reading.

I rose again at my hotel and this time packed up as I showered, shaved, dressed, and all of that. I have some soiled clothing, and that is not in my luggage but in a bag Deborah gave me. This reduction makes my luggage easier to close. I soon dress and pack, collect my laptop and iPhone, and head to the industrial but complimentary breakfast. Keith is running the breakfast, and he remembers me and we chat for a few moments. I spend the morning writing the blog.

Deborah picks me up in her mini and we have lunch. I tried a local Mexican place, Miguel’s Cantina, and I had the soup while Deborah tried a quesadilla. But we did then head to Deborah’s house, and there her dogs, Trixie and Zelda, demanded to be petted. Deborah ran my clothing (and my sweater vest, which did not make it unscathed from lunch) through her washing machine and dryer. I did experience envy as her appliances worked! I have only heard word that they are now ordering replacement parts (I have to pay for the parts, and also pay for their installation).

While we waited for the laundry and also for our time to head to the Detroit airport, we played some games. Our first was a word game, Letter Tycoon, and Deborah helped me. Somehow, I managed to beat Deborah 65 to 64. It was not a bad game.

Next, Liam and Donovan joined Deborha and me for the Chicago EL Transit Adventure Game with Liam doing the teaching. We soon started the game, a worker placement game that was a bit mean, and exploring Chicago’s subway was interesting. I rode it on my last trip to and from the airport. Liam was steps from winning (Deborah taking a beating) when Donovan quietly won the fast game. A rematch is needed.

With the game done, Liam drove us to the airport in Debotah’s mini. We found our way to tag our bags, but we headed the wrong way once, as the signage was wrong. But soon we passed security and reveled in not having to take off our shoes! Max and Erma (the last one in Michigan) were available at our gate. Deborah had some happy memories of the now-closed Michigan food joints where we ate. I had a less-than-stellar smoked turkey club, and Deborah had the honey mustard chicken sandwich, which was good (we split both and shared).

Our plane ran a few minutes late (the cleaning crew was running late, we were told), but soon we were on our Delta flight and surprised to learn that food was being served. We had a row of seats to ourselves, but the other side had babies who often didn’t enjoy the flight and wanted us to know this.

We got started watching the first Guardians of the Galaxy movie, which is always a blast, but the entertainment center had to be rebooted, we were told, and we had to restart. We finally got each of us watching the same movie at the same point. With dinner, Deborah received a complimentary drink (drinks were complimentary) of bourbon cream for her coffee (I had brought items in miniature bottles).

Deborah moved to the window and tried to sleep. I did nod off for about an hour. Our plan landed in Iceland, and Deborah and I were excited. Customs was just a few extra lines, and we located our luggage. We did see some Americans not show proper respect for customs (and considering what they could have done to you), and were surprised that the agents took no action.

Deborah navigated the Flybus, and soon we were on the 45-minute bus trip to Reykjavík. Another bus, and soon we were in Reykjavík, looking for our hotel. Deborah remembered what it looked like from the Internet photos.

Though our room would not be ready for hours, they arranged for us to get breakfast (for a charge) while we waited. It was the usual European mix of hot and cold meats, accompanied by a nice selection of cereals, fruits, yogurts, and baked goods. We also had lots of coffee.

Next, we spoke with Daniel, the helpful desk person who spoke perfect English. He told us he was Hungarian, adding that many drivers and other staff members are not native Icelandic speakers. He suggested a walk and we followed his advice. We headed to the famous church on Rainbow Street.

We walked uphill to the famous church, often stopping to browse the bookstore and tourist shops. Odin’s was especially good, offering products a step above the usual tourist fare, and we will return to it. We also saw many places to eat, including a Thai restaurant. Baked sheep’s head was available in one food joint — not something I would order.

We were finally exhausted, footsore, and needed a nap when we reached the famous church. I was unaware that there was a tower option and that the organ is massive. We will be back.

We headed back and soon had a room and a nap. I managed to get lucky with the shower, but Deborah actually figured it out (hold in the button). I headed to the bar, Uppsalir, connected to the hotel, and wrote the blog.

Thanks for reading. I will add our early evening to the next blog.

I overslept and was not up until after 8, and I was not out of room 107 by 9 for the complimentary industrial breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express. Deborah was up for hours at her house by then and was doing some work, cleaning, and packing (from what I could tell). I was at loose ends until about noon, and that fit me fine. I had the blog to write and could enjoy a slower pace today. I have been traveling for over a month, with just a few days at home (the house seemed more like a poorly staffed bed and breakfast than a home for the four days I was there, especially with The Machine still broken).

The staff at the hotel recognizes me (this may be my fifth visit in less than a year). They don’t mind me pointing out that the coffee is out, and they get a full container to put out. I write the blog and chat with a few older guests. One gentleman, residing in Alabama but originally from Michigan and visiting a son, laughs as I tell him I have been looking out the same window, eating breakfast every season. I could also see that he, too, might be doing that now.

I finish the blog, and the coffee has hit harder than I like; I step out for a walk. I have wondered since coming here what was in the little strip mall nearby. I also no longer tire when I walk, which is an improvement, and I can easily walk down to the area to find various local food joints, as well as a few chains. Panera Bread Company is a favorite chain of mine, and it is well represented by its corner location and the usual standardized look.

Kerby’s Koney Island with Vernor’s is a local chain that fits the family’s love of coney dogs. I was tempted to get one (with fresh chopped onions). Dad and Mom Wild would drive from Laingsburg to Flint to get a decent one. Dad used to take me to A&W in Saginaw when we would go to Saginaw Distributors (where Grandpa Wild worked and retired from). The highlight was the food. I resist, but smile as I think of Grandpa, Dad, and me eating some dogs in Saginaw.

While I was walking, Deborah sent me a plan for lunch with Liam and Donovan, her boys, at Dogwoods just inside Pontiac. I returned to the hotel, and soon Deborah, in her mini, picked me up. We pulled in at Liam pulled in with his mini. Dogwood had changed its menu, and the wraps were different and presented on slates instead of plates. It did not seem to be an improvement.

We chatted, and although I wasn’t nervous, it was our first meal together. Apparently, I did not flub it, and it was a pleasant experience. We arranged for Liam to drop us off at the airport for the Iceland flight.

I needed a power cable, and Deborah thought some clothing items would be nice. We headed to the local mall. This one is a combination of an older high-end mall and a newer but lesser mall, not a discount mall by any means. Deborah introduced me to the Shinola Company. They make watches and other high-end items, including a Petoskey stone, Michigan’s state stone (I have some at home), faced watch.

Deborah found something at the Nike store. I asked, as I was unfamiliar with the process now that I was retired and didn’t have a badge if I was eligible for a discount. Deborah saw the confusion on the manager’s face and said I was a retired Nike employee. I shared my employee number (which is still my connection to the shoe company) and ID, and received the usual 50% discount for employees. Deborah was happy to get the full discount.

After the mall, Deborah and I spent the afternoon together and then headed to Rochester for dinner. We picked Thai and ordered too much food, and most of it ended up in containers. We also got a small sundae at the next-door Dairy Queen. Some of the kids with ice cream were waving at the passing vehicles and blowing their horns, laughing and cheering when someone responded.

The traveling, the need to pack, and the time change (Deborah is only a few weeks from our California trip) meant a short night. I wrote and reviewed some items and then called Deborah. She had checked us both in and sent me a boarding pass file to add to my iPhone. All done and ready for the Iceland trip on Tuesday.

I returned to the book I was writing, a Fantasy story with some elements of horror, and I got a few more words down before I became sleepy. I managed to sleep on and off for most of the night. It’s the night before travel, and the time change starts to affect me on the third day.

Thanks for reading. The following blog will be delayed as I will be in Iceland at the time, trying to find an Internet connection.